Iceland- Highland

As challenging as the wind, rain and cloudy conditions are, they do make for dramatic lighting if you have the time to wait for that little cloud break to, just, move, over, a bit. Sigh.

This magical center for volcanic exploration even has a wild natural hot spring to cook yourself in, after a long day hiking, exceptional!

If you ever get the chance to go to Landmannalauger, Do it! And maybe prepare for the multiday trek to Poshmark. If you take a bus (yup- the adventure bus!) you won’t have to risk your own car.

There are so many stories, so many images, but I’m not so spontaneous at posting, so it takes a while. Stay with me, it’s quite an adventure.

In Landmannalauger, we studied the map, checked the weather, did those again, and were still challenges with both. I absolutely love and recommend GAIA GPS (or similar) to have a “you are here dot” on your topo map, and help you find the best way estimating distances and seeing the geographic challenges, though the river crossings are a wild card- small river, or large? Hopscotch, or wade, or maybe there’s a bridge? After wading across the river, we began the ascent to the pass two thirds of the way into the hike. The little red hiker man sign with exclamation is a new one for me, but it is reeeaaaly steep, with nothing to stop a tumble. Meh, whatever! Someone coming down said the wind on the ridge that we would need to cross was fierce, and folks on the other side were butt sliding down due to the exposure (and 300 foot drop). Maybe we could attempt that river crossing again? Of course after a few moments to ensure he couldn’t see that we chickened out. I noticed these folks coming down the ridge across from us- Amazing! The drama of the weather, the colors of rhyolite slopes, punctuated with snowfields is such an interesting image, adding a bit of scale to the scene.

Red Hiker Dangerous Trail signpost

Landmannalauger Iceland highlands

Landmannalauger Iceland highlands

When we got to our return river crossing, we saw the groups of people that were on the ridge, some were from Poland, others from Germany. It’s an illustration that this area really calls to the adventurers.

Steaming vent in Landmannalauger Iceland highlands

Landmannalauger Iceland highlands

Iceland, Birdland!

Discovering Iceland was an absolute treat. Here are a few chapters in the story, with many more as we have time to write them and process the photos.

Puffins! Maybe it’s Puffin Wednesday?

It’s a little amazing that these guys can stay out at sea for more time than on land. The adults that were shuttling in little fishes to their pufflings were way too fast for me to photograph, but it was a treat to watch them.

The Terns were busy, or had someone taller than me to bother, but here are a few aerials from them. On our last day on the Reykjanes Peninsula, we watched them flying back and forth carrying little fish (one way) just like the Puffins. They were very focused on that task, but seemed to enjoy zooming in and out just a few feet over land or water.

Birds!

The ranger told Susan “you better stay close to him” pointing to me- I thought she’d pegged me for a troublemaker- weird. Actually the Arctic Terns nesting in the area will harass the tallest person around, rather than the shorter ones. And they did! They kept dive bombing me shrieking as if I were going to steal the eggs from the nest.

It was an absolute joy to listen to the cacophony of birds in so many places, without the competition of man made noises. The Puffins in Borgarfjordur- Eystri, the Terns in the Westmann Islands, The great colonies in the Latrabjarg Cliffs (Kittiwakes, Puffins, Razorbills, Guillemot, Fulmer) and most of the waterfall canyons that we hikes had cliff dwelling birds enjoying the Icelandic Summer. We explored the tidal lake land near our camp in Reykholar and were escorted thru the property by Redshank, Blacktailed Godwit, Whimbrels, Ptarmigan, Plover, Snipe, Terns, Loons, and caught a glimpse of the elusive white tailed Eagle. How much fun is that!?

Iceland, Rainland, Windland, Mudland

Our Dacia Duster was pretty dirty on the outside; the rental assistant walked around and showed me where the documented dings and damages were. I couldn’t really see those. Was it the dirt, or my bleary eyes from the sleepless flight? Well, ok. How about this damage to the front that’s not on the paperwork? Its ok, only the photos matter. Hmm- I guess I should photograph it then? Already did.

That didn’t really sit well- I’ll be on the hook for repairs that are existing. Sure- ok.

We found this attitude prevalent in different scenarios over the next 3 weeks. Here are the rules, here are the consequences, and we trust you to do the right thing. No 3rd degree if you don’t bring it back full- maybe I didn’t hear that? Weird.

After a while it felt good to be trusted to do the right thing, whether that was parking, camping, or paying for the toilet.

That mental shift is one of the values of getting out of your element, a change of perspective. As we’re traveling again, there are still lingering doubts, and reasons not to go, or stay close to home. Let’s return to the reasons that we travel, explore, learn, inspire and see things a new (or refreshed) way.

We did bring the car back kind of clean, and there were no extra charges.

No Dusters were harmed in any way during the production of this adventure.